A Stoner’s Guide to Manali, Kasol, Pulga and Kheerganga – Holy mountain tourism

This guide is not for those newly weds who go there for their honeymoons with only two things in mind – copulate and bitch about each others in-laws. This guide is for people like me who likes to explore strange new worlds, to seek out new life and new civilizations, to boldly go where no man has gone before. Again, the prices listed in this guide are with respect to off-season rainy time during July-August. So price information should be double checking before starting the trip. The path followed by me avoid crowded places so this guide might not list lot of places which are famous and well known. I have purposefully omitted them because they are too crowded and hamper the peace.
This month, I had undertaken one of the best holidays in my life by visiting Manali. Before leaving for Manali, we scraped and searched the net for all kinds of information about Manali and traveling tips. We were helped by many friends from Isratrance and traveling sites in our endeavor. Still there was some spark missing in the information.
Here is my humble attempt to list down places and a travel guide which I believe would be helpful for the first timers and experienced visitors alike to extract the maximum from your trip.
The places are listen in the same chronoligical order which I would prefer and suggest you to follow.
Reaching Manali and Old Manali
There are 3-4 ways to reach Manali depending upon your starting location.
If you are from North India, probably the best way would be take a bus or taxi from Chandigarh or Delhi. Buses price range from 700-850 bucks depending upon facility. Beware though as the bus journey from Delhi to Manali is 16 hours. Taxi should cost you more but it will get to your destination earlier also.
If you are from East India, you can probably take a train to Kalka and from there a bus to Kullu or Manali.
I believe for West and South Indian people, best way would be to reach Delhi either by train or flight and from there continue as noted in point (1).
The bus will take you to New Manali. Don’t even bother to spend anytime out there. Head straightaway to the village called Old Manali across the river. It’s 3KM away from the bus stop and the best way would be walk down there. If you are dead tired then you can take an auto but I will prefer walking. Rates of rooms and hotels are always less in Old Manali. According to Wikipedia entry about Manali, its more of a hippy place rather then a tourist place. An advice would be not to look for rooms which overlook the river just as you enter Old Manali. I will suggest that you walk a little up and keep on going further till you find a room with decent view and price. That walk would remind you of Anjuna or Vagator as similar kinds of shops are lined on both sides of the road.
Old Manali gives you an awesome view. Stay there for one day and explore the near by places. Lot of times parties happen near Old Manali which is at most one hour trekking. There is a forest on the left hand side too which you can explore after getting stoned.
Solang Valley
It is about valley about 13KM from Manali with splendid view. It offers views of the glaciers and snow-capped mountain peaks. The plateau is frequently used for holding camps by the trekking parties. Good skiing slopes of the Mountaineering Institute. Its is also the venue of annual winter carnival from February 10-14. Bus service is available up to Palchan village (10 km) and then by jeep or on foot. Start in the morning and you can be back by evening.
Vashisht
It’s a 3KM walk from Old Manali. You will find rooms as well as eateries there. The main attraction is an ancient kund (well, bathtub) where you get natural hot water spring. Good place to chill out if you have a room there as the view from Vashisht is much better then Manali but then it’s isolated too. There is definitely more action in Old Manali.
Rohtang Pass
Located at around 51 km from Manali at an altitude of 4,112 metres on the highway to Keylong, the pass affords a wide-spread panorama of mountain scenery. In place of the pinnacled hills, sheltered valleys and cultivated tracts, the eye meets a range of precipitous cliffs, huge glaciers and piled Moraine, and deep ravines. Almost directly opposite is the well defined Sonepani glacier, slightly to the left are the twin peaks of the Geypang, jagged pyramids of rock, snow streaked and snow crowned.
The Beas river rises near the crest of Rohtang from a block of Mica-Schist. The pass normally opens for traffic after mid-June and officially closes in November. To its left, 200 metres higher, is the little lake of Sarkund (Dashair) visited by a number of people, the general belief being that a bath in these waters effects a cure of all bodily ailments-real or imaginary. 10 km before Rohtang is the barren-landscape of Marhi which hums with activity during summer and autumn months because almost everyone stops here for refreshments.
You should take a cab to Rohtang pass. Prices are always negotiable but talking to your hotel owner would give you a general idea about the prices.
Keylong
About 117 km from Manali. A fair sized village amidst green fields of barley and buckwheat, Keylong is the headquarters of the Lahaul and Spiti district, surrounded with brown hills and snowy heights. Karding Monastery overlooks Keylong and is 3.5 km across the Chandra river while Shashur Monastery is about 1 km. HPTDC Tourist Bungalow. Conveyance should be followed as similar to Rohtang pass.
Naggar
Next place on your itinerary should be Naggar. Buses to Naggar ply every 15-20 minutes from New Manali bus station. Before boarding, ask and convince the bus owner to let you sit on top. The ride is just mind-boggling. Its located on the left bank of the Beas and about three hundred meters above the river, Naggar is delightfully situated on a wooded slope and commands an extensive view, especially of the north west of the valley. It is an excellent place for a longer stay. Naggar was the capital of the Kullu Rajas for about 1,400 years. There are a large number of famous temples in and around Naggar. Artist Nicholas Roerich’s art gallery is also worth a visit. Cars and jeeps can easily go up to the Naggar Castle which is now Himachal Tourism’s well furnished Hotel Castle.
Bijli Mahadev Temple
This is the best attraction nearest to Naggar. Take an auto from Naggar bus stop to Patlikul and from there trek to this famous temple. This striking temple is set on a spur, and is famous for its 60 ft high staff which periodically attracts lightning that shatters the Shivalinga. Each time this happens, it is pieced together by the temple priest.
Kasol
This is the place to be when you are in Manali. Buses are available to this place almost from every village and valley in Manali. It all depends upon where you are. Check out with the locals and get to know the best and cheapest way to travel to Kasol.
Once you are in Kasol, you will think that you are in Little Israel. It’s full of Israelis and foreigners who just chill out there by reading books, chatting, making woolen clothes and smoking lots of chocolate. Hotels, rooms, restaurants are all available at decent rates. It’s on the riverbank so the view is awesome. Most of the rooms will give you riverside view which you can enjoy to the hilt.
Another attraction of Kasol, are the parties that happen out here during on-season time with Israeli style balagan.
When in Kasol, you can also opt for the forests of pines that border the village. There is a camping site right next to the river and another located higher up through a maze of rhododendrons. Needless to say, the river is icy cold but not enough of a restriction to wandering horses that pass through each morning, sounding their approach through the woods.
Cooking in the wild is always enjoyable but if the palate is hungry for pampering, then options of pancakes and apple-pies are easily available from the German Bakery in the village. And of course, Indian dhaba cuisine is unbeatable - nothing beats the stuffed aloo paratha (potato baked within flat bread) and hot chai (tea) with the mist drifting past, literally sniffing in the delicious aromas.
Journey down the forest, climb the hills, chase off to Manikaran on the trekkers track - through streams and rocky paths, wide enough to take only one foot at a time. Just remember to step aside courteously, as large herds of sheep file past, casting secretive looks towards all those who don’t look like them!
Chhal
This is a small village about 30 minutes trekking time from Kasol. The trekking path is awesome with beautiful view of the mountains. There is another way to go to Chhal which is pretty long so take help from the locals in Kasol to know the correct path to the village. I didn’t see any rooms or hotels in Chhal so I am not sure about the accommodation part. There are couples of eateries though. You also get very good quality chocolates out there. So if you are in one of those morning/evening walking mood, put on your shoes and head over to Chhal.
Malana
This is a place that all stoners should visit. It’s the ultimate pilgrimage. It’s the home of the best cream in whole of India.
Its a small cluster of around two hundered stone roof houses constituting a village called Malana. Its inimitable culture and the temple of Jamlu distinguish the village. The village consists of around 1500 inhabitants and has an impeccable system of administration with even a higher and lower court guided by the spirit of village God Jamlu. Malana stands out as an autonomous self-created unit whose inhabitants claim Greek ancestry.
The Republic of Malana; a little Greece in Malana; the Drug Mafia in Malana; do’s and don’ts in Malana - all sort of fanciful stories are being regularly published in newspapers and magazines. A Malanese is subject to all sorts of probes and investigations.
However, what distinguishes this village in the interior of the Himalayas are the striking characteristics are -persistent & adamant effort by the inhabitants to retain their unique age-old heritage, inaccessibility of the village so far makes it a greater attraction for adventure tourists and scholars alike, unique geographical location, which has preserved its bio-diversity and is an ecological heaven, the village God is considered by the inhabitants as superior in power as compared to those of the other Gods in the Kulu valley, their manner of worship in strikingly different from the usual Himachal traditional rituals, some words of the language and the architectural motifs are arguably of Greek provenance, a strange legend exists related to Emperor Akbar legitimizing pre-eminence of the Jamlu devta, language locally called Kanashi does not belong to the Indo-Aryan group and serves and acts as a medium of communication among the Malanese only.Architecture is also unique and each architectural structure has a specific purpose and bears a vernacular name, the motifs on the residential houses have no resemblance to those in the adjoining regions. The motifs have connotations, which could be of interest to scholars, an elected village judiciary enforces rules and regulations adopted over the centuries for the benefit of the Malanese.
Malana valley is connected to Kulu by three mountain passes - it can be reached from Parbati valley crossing over the 3180 metres Rashol Pass and via Nagar over the 3600 metres beautiful Chanderkhani pass. They easiest way to reach Malana is from jari which is a 23 kms picturesque trek to Malana. Jari is two hours drive from Kulu and is situated at the confluence of the Malana and Manikaran nallah, which join to form the Parbati River.
Jari is an entry point to Malana. There are buses available for Jari in every 20-30 minutes from Kasol. About one and half kilometers from Jari is the Malana powerhouse and one has to register his or her name here before entering the valley. From the power house to the dam is a 10 kms trek and thereafter it is an uneven trek of 7 kms to Malana. The last 4 kms stretch to Malana is a treacherous uphill trek. But the greenery all around with interceptions of waterfalls and streams keeps one’s spirit high. About 2 kms from Malana powerhouse is Chowki, a small hamlet and the only towering structure in the village is the Shiva temple. This is the only village in the region, which is near to Malana separated by 15 kms. However, the people of Chowki have nothing in common with the Malanese.
A beautiful description can be found at: http://www.eastofeden.com.fr/inde/english/malana.htm
Manikaran
After coming back to Kasol from Malana, next on your agenda should be On the trekking route to Pulga and Pin Parvati pass, Manikaran is famous for its hot springs. Thousands of people take a dip in its hot waters. The water is so hot that dal (pulses), rice etc. can be boiled in it. It is also a well known pilgrimage centre and there is an ancient Hindu temple and a gurdwara here. According to a legend, Manikaran is also associated with Lord Shiva and his divine consort, Parvati, who lost and recovered her ear-ring here.
Be well informed that Manikaran town is not very clean. Somebody said that you might not even get a clean & decent public toilet.
Pulga & Kheerganga
Its one of the most scenic trekking routes which is visited by almost everybody who goes to Kasol. Be prepared to live in tents as there are no rooms or hotels in this path. Sometimes the local give out there homes for staying.
From Manikaran, you will have to take a bus for Barshani which is another small town known for his Sikh gurudwaras. You can then trek to Pulga or you can actually trek from Manikaran itself. From Manikaran its around 6KM trekking along the banks River Parbati. Do not get shocked if you meet lot of foreigners on your way. They are more than locals. Stay anywhere, in local houses, tents etc. You will never get tired as walking immensely enjoyble. One of the best walking experiences that you are going to have in your life.
Further 5 kms. of Pulga, following the river is Kheerganga. It is place for hermits but it has have seen lot of tents and you will meet lot of trekkers. There is one hermitage but it is usually overloaded. Never leave Pulga without proper knowledge of accommodation there e.g. something to cook/eat. It is always better to be equipped with tent. There are no eating joints. If you are well equipped, trek further to cross a snow bridge(it is there upto late May) and keep walking. You will reach Pandav bridge and across that to Mantalai. There is no habitation. Only pastures. You may not encounter any human being there. There is innumerable scope for exploration. On your left is LAHAUL and on your front is KINNAUR/KAZA. So search and exploration can be done and some remote village of Lahaul can be reached from here.
During your trek you will get chased by dogs, sew stunning water falls, pass through a couple of mountain villages and drink several chais. When you reach the top, a reward will be waiting for you - 40°C hotsprings. A nice welcome considering it is freezing cold up there.
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Well, the world is your limit. You can trek further to the farthest point from here. It all depends upon your energy and enthusiasm.
To visit and enjoy all the above places, I will suggest keeping around 15 days in your schedule. Less then that, you might miss some places or the trip would be too hectic killing the whole idea behind having a holiday.
Note: If you find any of the information incorrect or you think that you can add something of yours out here, do send me a mail. I will be more then happy to incorporate it in this post.